Kyle's 75 Gallon Build

Discussion in 'New Tank Builds' started by trivialmonroe, Mar 18, 2014.

  1. Ok Guys, here is where I will document my build.

    So far I have:

    75 Gallon Drilled Tank with stand and canopy
    Reef Octo NWB-150
    20 Gallon Sump
    Eheim 1260
    200W Thermometer
    Reefbreeders 48" LED Light (Ordered)
    Salt Mix

    To-order/Buy list:
    ATO
    RO/DI
    Live Rock
    Sand
    Plumbing (PVC, cement, etc)
    Timers

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  2. Uperepik

    Uperepik Administrator

    Very nice, Reefbreeders have great lights for the price. Did you get programmable or manual light? Were did you get the tank setup?
     

    Attached Files:

  3. I went with the programmable Photon Series, was a great value. I picked up the tank and stand in Little Rock from "The Fish Tank" across from the mall.
     
  4. Uperepik

    Uperepik Administrator

    Oh yeah, I saw that. The stand and canopy are nice. Can't wait to see it wet. Are you going with dry rock or live?
     
  5. Here is a question for everyone, what RO/DI should I get? I have been looking on bulkreefsupply, but there are different models so I am not sure what I am looking for. I figured I could either set it up in my laundry room or under my kitchen sink.

    I am looking at this one at the moment, but wanted to be sure I didn't need to get a different one. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-stage-value-ro-di-system-75gpd.html
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 18, 2014
  6. roco

    roco Blenny

    I have some of this Pukani rock in my refugium. It is a very light and porous rock with lots of character. I don't think you would be disappointed with it.
     
  7. I was planning on 60lbs of sand (Fiji Pink) and 50 lbs of the Pukani rock... Does that sound sufficient? Is there a cheaper way to get set up... seems a little steep to me.
     
  8. sperry_1978

    sperry_1978 Membership Director


    I have the RODI unit that this link take you too! It works great!
     
  9. sperry_1978

    sperry_1978 Membership Director

    Setup is the most expensive part of the hobby in my option. However check with Cory and other members of the club like you are and you can usually get much better deals on live rock.
     
  10. gregnlr

    gregnlr Grouper

    I would pass on the sand, I have a sand in my office tank that has scratched the glass (a lot). Not saying this happens with all sand but it did on mine. You can go to The Fish Tank and get their reef sand, which is actually a larger size and works well in the tank.
     
  11. I went ahead and got the Fiji Pink Reef Sand, its a good size between large and small grain as well as the 50lbs of Pukani rock. I just hope I get some big pieces in there to make a good aquascape. :) I think the only thing I have left is buy is plumbing and an ATO system, but I should be able to get this show on the road as soon as I head to Lowes in the next few days :)
     
  12. roco

    roco Blenny

    That is a good RO/DI unit. 50lbs of Pukani rock should be fine. Bulk Reef Supply is good about sending nice pieces. What type of ATO are you thinking about and are you going to use hard or soft plumbing.
     
  13. I was going to use Hard PVC Schedule 40; As many unions and valves as makes sense and a check valve on the return.

    For an ATO, I was looking at this one: but it is really expensive: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/tunze-osmolator-universal-3155-auto-top-off.html If I do decide to go with it, I will probably wait a bit and add water myself for a month or two to spread out the investment a little (while keeping my eye out for a deal, etc.)
     
  14. Uperepik

    Uperepik Administrator

    Are you saying your going to have 50lbs of live rock in your sump, display or total in your system
     
  15. Total system at first, so display tank. I was going to possibly put a little in the sump with some chaeto

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
     
  16. huntindoc

    huntindoc RRMAS BOD Membership Director Staff Member


    I would recommend avoiding the check valve and instead designing your return to minimize siphon to the sump. Check valves can and most likely will fail. If that's all you depend on to prevent a flood you're very likely to have one eventually.

    Just have your return empty just below the surface. It will help with air exchange as well.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. roco

    roco Blenny

    I agree with David. All you need is to have your return line just below the surface of the water in the display tank when the warter drops down to that point the siphon will brake. The Tunze Osmolater is a rock solid ATO. I have been running one for about two and a half years with very little problems.
     
  18. Sounds great guys. So that brings me to my next question. I bought the tank, canopy and stand together and the tank came with an overflow that was too large (designed for a 110). Fish store said I could just cut them to fit, but I don't know how short I need to make them...

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
     
  19. uploadfromtaptalk1395190743346.jpg I cut holes for the overflow and return. Are there any benefits to just making this a square? I figured it would be a little stronger if I stuck with two small holes but I don't want to restrict access to the bulkheads if I spring a leak

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
     

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