Agree with Corey on the holes. The tank is supported on the perimeter and allowing adequate space with a square hole will allow future access. The plywood on the top of the stand is more to keep the stand square and prevent racking (twisting).
OK thanks guys. Here is the finished product as well as the current "long" problem Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
Here is my plan for plumbing, does anyone have any concerns? (Sorry for my crude drawing) Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
I would reverse it, I would have the return going straight up so you get better head, the downflow is gravity so let it do the longer distance. Also I would remove the 45's and use 90's. Just my two cents...
Gonna throw another idea out there. Since there is only two drilled holes in the corner overflow I would suggest looking at using one as the primary and one as a backup/emergency drain. Pipe the return outside and up the back to a spray header. This should also make it easier to keep both drain & return a bit straighter. I know that I have seen this arrangement on other club members tanks.
Emergency drain? I know I have seen some but I hadn't planned on one. If I routed around the back I wouldn't be able to put the tank flush on the wall, but I can look at it. Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
As long as you can get to the drain & return after installation it shouldn't be a problem using the two holes. Everyone plumbs tanks a bit different. I reworked mine twice since the original installation trying to make it quieter and needed two drains.
Ok, on your return and drain pipes being to long. With the return line I would cut the 1 inch pipe so that the 90 degree fitting will line up with the pre cut out that is in the overflow box. Now with the drain pipe, it is a little more complicated. In your overflow box you want the water line to be about 1 inch below the water line in the tank. So you want to cut the 1.5 inch pipe so that the top of the 180 degree (the two 90 degree fittings) is about 1 inch below the back of the overflow box or where you want the water line to be inside the overflow box. The water line will fall about where the top of the 180 fitting is. They make a coupling that is called a slip fix that you can place on the 1.5 inch drain pipe that will let you adjust the height of the drain so you can fine tune the water line inside the overflow box. Hope this makes sense. I like Greg's idea about placing your pump on the other side that way you get a straight shot to the tank and you don't lose head pressure. Also to me plumbing with 45 degree fittings is a little more difficult to get things lined up than with 90 degee fittings.
Redundancy is a good thing with large volumes of salt water in your home. What Chum suggested will give you a safety net and a quieter drain. I would have the sump end of the drain about 3/4" to 1" below the water surface in the sump. My crazy tank came with 3 drain holes and two return holes so I have a full siphon, an open standpipe that converts to a full siphon if the other siphon clogs up AND a dry emergency drain that kicks in if the other two clog. I also like Corey's idea of two return pumps instead of splitting one. I just have too much invested in my 1400 gph return pump to scrap it for two smaller ones. Your tank sitting a little from the wall is not bad at all. All of my electronics hang on the back of the tank.
Just commenting so I can follow this thread. But just realized that I know nothing about sumps and plumbing. Maybe I'll learning something following this.
I think what I am going to start with is the reverse of what I initially showed, having the return on the opposite side. I plan to have unions in place so that if I do decide to do the dual-drain (herbie?) system, I can spend a weekend and change it to add in the extra return up the back (would need to leave myself a little space before I fill it with water, but I think I can manage.) I should probably mention again that I am more than happy to have someone come over and help me not mess this up... can provide food and possibly compensation if necessary
If you ever want to use both as drains there is no reason you can't split the return line with a TEE and drop the size if you want to keep the gap between the tank and wall to a minimum. Two 3/4" have slightly more area than a single 1". Just keep an eye to the future.
Getting through it little by little. Still have to do a lot of gluing. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
