Brown Outbreak

Discussion in 'General Reef Discussion' started by jerryla, Dec 2, 2014.

  1. jerryla

    jerryla Plankton

    Clean up crew is 2 Turbo Snails, 6 Nassarius snails, 8 red leg and 8 blue leg crabs.
    When I bought this tank it came with an Aqua Safe 3 stage ro/di system. Silent Reefer: I was unsure when the cartridges had been changed so I ordered a combination case with 4 of each of the 3 filters and added one resin filter to the system. The main filter, the reverse osmosis membrane did not get changed, so with the problems with the water I made I decided to order a new membrane and 2 more resin filters which total more than the cost of a complete new 7 stage Aquasafe Marine System with a 20% discount. Did the water change this morning and everything 6 hours later is covered in brown gunk. Using a turkey baster to blow off the corals but this stuff shows no sign of slowing down. Green polys still closed tight, hammer and torch look a little better. Also bought a media bag and added charcoal to the sump. Will see what this does. At least no more deaths today.
     
  2. jerryla

    jerryla Plankton

    Just did a set of tests again Ph is dropping.
    PH 7.9
    Salinity 1.024
    CA 450
    KH 9.8
    MG 1600+
    Yesterday morning the PH was at 8.1, this morning 8.0, this evening 7.9
    Should I keep the lights on or off?? Or does it matter?
     
  3. graciesdad

    graciesdad Treasurer Staff Member

    I would not chase pH. Do you have a refugium?
     
  4. jerryla

    jerryla Plankton

    Hey Jason, I don't have a refugium. I have a regular sump. I added some charcoal in a media bag in the first compartment. In the past I have used a product by Seachem Aquavitro OH -Balance, which supposedly raises pH without affecting the calcium and alkalinity. I have decided unless someone with much more knowledge than myself says add chemicals, I'm going to let it run it's course. I'm keeping the brown blown off the corals, cut down my lights and going to let nature take it's course. I think I have contributed to this issue by possible over feeding and too much light, for too long. I think someone posted earlier some pretty good advice..... slow down. Think I'll listen.
     
  5. I agree not to chase pH. It will fluctuate throughout the day trending up then down. I see now regarding the ro/di unit.
     
  6. Kim

    Kim Secretary Staff Member

    Hiya,

    I'd increase your snail population. Mexican turbo's are great with algea. Hermits aren't going to help with that. I also wouldn't chase your PH.

    Kim/Benton, AR
     
  7. jerryla

    jerryla Plankton

    Thanks Kim. Is there a certain number per gallon you should have? I have two large Turbos or Bulldozers as I call them and 6 Nassarius in my 75. It appears the algae bloom is calming down. Yesterday evening there was not a new layer of brown on my rock and corals. The water change helped I'm sure. Ph was up to 8.1. Things seem to be improving, only a few casualties.
     
  8. whippetguy

    whippetguy Super Moderator

    2-3 turbo snails are enough for a 75g
     
  9. Hate to hear your losing another fish. Are you able to set up a hospital/quarantine tank?
     
  10. jerryla

    jerryla Plankton

    I have a 35 gallon that I originally set up just for that. I have not maintained it as well as I should have. Have to work on that today. Not sure what I would treat for. I do believe upon close inspection of my yellow tang, it looks like ich. He is swimming and still eating. I've been reading about treating in the main tank. Anyone have experience with treating ich with corals around. As I understand it, the Ich is now in the tank and can last for up to 11 months? Whats the word. This is going horribly wrong.
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 10, 2014
  11. I was thinking buy water from lfs for the qt. the idea is simply to separate the qt from the display. Completely new environment. Not for medication. Start over in last ditch effort to save your fish.
     

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  12. Kim

    Kim Secretary Staff Member

    Hiya,

    Depending on how big your turbo's are, you might want to get some margaretta snails or a few other different types. They will all have their specialties. ::grin:: Yeah...turbo's can be tanks. They have a tendency of knocking off any of my frags that I don't have nailed down.

    Kim/Benton, AR
     
  13. jerryla

    jerryla Plankton

    My new ro/di system came in today so I've been working getting that assembled. Apparently that was the weak link which helped with the algae outbreak. After assembling the new AquaSafe and having a TDS meter I checked what my old system was making and it was not good. The readings on a 5 gallon bucket of ro/di water made through the old system read 137. My new system reads 292 going in and 000 coming out. Did more research on methods of treating my yellow tang, decided garlic was a safe enough method. I read that it really does not do anything but help build up his immune system and make it less likely to kill him. After one dose around lunch time, he looks better. He is eating and swimming, no scratching on the rocks so that is a good sign,I think. Green button corals are moved to a lower flow area of the tank and they have opened up. Pulsing Zenia is gone.
     
  14. huntindoc

    huntindoc RRMAS BOD Membership Director Staff Member

    A functioning TDS meter is vital to tell you how your system is working. A pressure gauge is also important. When my pressure falls (or if my pre-filters look soiled) I change the pre-filters. If your TDS after the RO (but before DI) gets much above 4-5 it's time to replace your membrane. Mine usually runs 0-2 after thr RO...guess my Conway water is pretty good. TDS after DI should always be zero. This doesn't mean the water is without any contaminants but it tells you your RO/DI is working properly.

    Jerry we ought to get a sample of your water to Scubadog and see if he can tell us what the contaminant is!
     
  15. jerryla

    jerryla Plankton

    Yeah, the inline TDS meter that came with the system that came with my tank failed a few weeks back. I sent that off to be repaired or replace at that time. I had made about 32 gallons of salt water and 25 gallons of what I thought was clean freshwater. When I got this first system I replaced all the pre filters but not the ro membrane. The first couple times I made water the finished water was coming out 003, this apparently changed. With my new system I have 7 filters for filtration, the last 3 being a DI Resin. I have a gauge I think I will add into the system. I checked the ro/DI water I purchased 10 gallons of yesterday, it tests 035. Last night when I started making water into a food grade Rubbermade 32 gallon container I took a sample directly from the ro/DI unit it read 000. After running a few hours I checked again from the unit 000. I took a sample from the accumulated water in the Rubbermade, it tests 001. Is that difference just from the container? Anything to be concerned with?
    Thanks to all who have commented on this post, your experience and advice is greatly appreciated
    Jerry
     
  16. Lyndya

    Lyndya Blenny

    Do you want some more pulsing zenia? I have plenty to share and could bring it to the meeting Saturday.
     
  17. jerryla

    jerryla Plankton

    That would be awesome Lynda. Hated to lose my guy he was my favorite. Thank you!!
     
  18. Reefmann

    Reefmann Plankton

    Wow 137! I thought mine was bad reading 003.... Whew....
     
  19. jerryla

    jerryla Plankton

    Yeah, even the water I bought reads out 35. I checked my replenishing tank and it read 125. Bad water!! I did another water change this morning with Good water 000. Lost my yellow tang last night. Hoping the brown algae bloom is going to calm down now with good water, we'll see. Down to two fish, black & white ocellaris clown and percula clown.
     
  20. Reefmann

    Reefmann Plankton

    Clowns are like damsels, they are very hardy. Hope all pans out. Sorry about your losses
     

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