On the top left and right side of the over flow I would add a piece of plexi that is notched to go over the glass kind of like the over back filters that hang on the tank, that way the overflow will hang on as well as silicone holding it on. Just don't know if silicone will handle the weight of the overflow over time. IMO. I am assuming the over flow is made of plexi. My self I would make it from Glass as the silicone would bond glass to glass better JMO. And if you build a stand for the over flow to sit on to help hold the weight it should be OK. Don't get me wrong I think this is a great build. Just throwing out some ideas.
Ok that makes a lot more since to me haha. The box is made out of acrylic I've got 2 legs under the box that go to the ground to give it a bit more strength so it can't just fall straight down. i can add a small little "arm/hook" on each side to hang onto the back of the aquarium pretty easily though. Thank you!
I worked on the return this weekend and finally got it working the way I want it to. Ran it for about 4 hours and had no problems!!! Then got it painted and made the hood fit around it. The only thing left is to get it all plugged in, and to order the light I want. Problem is I was going to buy it today and its out of stock for a week!!!!!!!!!
Re: Re: William's fluval edge conversion Check out this item I found on eBay: Odyssea 20" 72W (4x 18W) T5 HO Light Fixture Extendable Series Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Odyssea-20-72W- ... 0802325485 There you go. 20" T5 Aquarium Light HO 72W Cichlid Marine Reef LED 4 Lamps 18W Odyssea Nano Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-T5-Aquarium- ... 0655164946 Raffle grabber
The only thing that I see is a posible back syphon from your returns. Just allow enough room in the back tank (sump) for the water in the return lines to syphon down. I drill a small hole in the return elbow just under the water line to stop the syphon. depending on how deep the returns are in the tank you may not need the hole, just let it syphon down to the return opening.
I was planning on drilling 2 very small holes, to be placed right at the water line angled down. So when I cut off the pump, air will kill the back syphon as soon as possible. Since my small sump doesn't have much room for excess water. Something I will have to work on as the setup gets going. With the tank design I don't like the water line to get lower than the false top of the tank (otherwise you have to get air bubbles out from under the glass, which is just plain annoying). So another reason to never have a back syphon on this tank. Thanks for the advice! On a personal note, I would like to thank everyone in the club for all the support over the years. When I first dove into this amazing hobby I had no idea what I was getting myself into. My first tank was a single piece of coral a starfish an eel and a dwarf lion. Thanks to all your help and inspiration from either talking with you or simply seeing pictures of your aquariums on the site. My personal aquariums have flourished. I never saw my self being able to drill a 100 g aquarium and build a system controlling 3 different tanks and ecosystems at once, or modifying a 5 gallon tank to allow for a sump to grow SPS corals. Allowing me to successfully keep all the fish and coral I never thought I would even be able to see in my life. So thank you for always being their for me, and for creating this group and site which gave me the opportunity to grow and thrive. Haha, I promise I won't get all mushy gushy and corny again, but I felt it needed to be said at least once.
Would be nice to have you at a meeting sometime. I'm sure there are members that would like to know more about your system. The meeting in Feb is at my house, so maybe you can drop by if even for a short time. Hope to see you then.
Finally got it all up and running. Still missing my new light though :-( Need to work on getting my skimmer silenced, and tweak the overflow a bit but that's about it!!! Without the skimmer running, the system is pretty quite for the most part. Not quite sure if I like the rock scape or not, I just threw it together in a few minutes but it works for now. Now to stock up on some awesome sps corals!!!
I was wanting at the odyssea 4 Bulb T5 fixture that Whitney suggested, but It's never in stock on aquatrader! ever!! So I started looking at their LED's and was wondering if anyone has used them before? In going to be keeping mainly SPS, with a few LPS in the tank. I was planning on going with the tried and true T5's sine we all know they work but I'm also an impatient college kid These are the two I've been looking at recently http://www.aquatraders.com/LED-Reef-Bright-p/56212.htm http://www.aquatraders.com/LED-Reef-Bright-p/56211.htm
I've considered it but it will be an inch above the water or less. So I'm liking the idea of a water tight fixture versus a retro kit. I was also just informed that 1 watt led wont work for SPS so those are out.
I am going to be getting a demo LED fixture in the next couple weeks, it is supposed to be equivalent to a 250w MH and it will only be about $250. It might be overkill for your purposes, but I will see if they have a smaller demo they could send me if you would be interested in it.
The kits have waterproof end caps so it should not be a problem, and you can mount the ballast away fron the water behind the tank. Just saying.
But with the way the fluval edge hood is, I would have to build a hood from scratch to fade into the exisitng hood in order to mount the retro kit, which gets a little over my head unfortunately
I have seen people use rain gutter with end caps to make light hoods out of. You could do two with two bulbs each. Just a thought. http://www.rcarchive.com/fish/hood/
