You could use stainless steel (like flatten a stainless steel bowl). But if you close off the holes in the top you might need to add a fan.
I will only be blocking about an inch of the holes in the front. There is still going to be a 6x6 inch square of holes for air circulation. But if it does get to hot, I can easily add one of my old cpu fans to the lid where its hidden in the back.
The seahorses are no longer in this tank so I decided to try my hand at acros in a small tank again so with a few upgrades like an led light that might or might not grow coral and a new hydor pico here we go also the rock scape needs some work but its difficult with such a small opening to the tank Added an led box to increase the lights, but I don't know if it will grow coral, I need a par meter to better see whats going on. Fish I kept from my 30 when I sold it, they will not live in this tank for much longer dont worry The entre point of buying this tank is the view!
Good work! I like those LED lights. They look like they belong with the set up sitting on top of the cover. The Edge is a nice little tank.
I would like to cut out a small piece in the hood and and make the top of the led light flush with the back part of the hood. I just don't know how to cut the plastic evenly enough to not have it an eye sore.
Ok, so I've officially decided that the LED box is not working for sps coral, and since sps corals are the whole reason I have this tank I need to fix the lighting. Most of my frags are slowly losing their color, they still their polyps out which are still colored nicely, but the calcium structures themselves are slowly turning white. I am thinking of swapping the led fixture out with the 150w halide I have on my 55g predator tank for now. I"m planning on having the halide mounted prety hight up but this is just a quick fix till I can find a light that works both functinally and asthetically. Does anyone know of a lighitng system that would be enough for sps while at the same time fit asthetically with the aquarium. The dimensions of the hood are 7.5" wide 10" long with only 5" inches being over the water, the other half would be lighting the filter. and 3" deep. So far I have two options" http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-61/ ... LED/Detail This LED retro kit with an added heat sync wouldn't be to expensive, but I'm not sure if they will grow SPS, I sent them an email earlier asking their opinion on which of their products woudl work for what I'm wanting to do. My other option is to retro fit some t5's such as this fixture but run 4 bulbs instead of 2.
I saw a metal alive bulb at 6500k that was 30 watts and another that was at 10k at the same wattage I believe. Raffle grabber
That could work pretty well, I was looking for smaller wattage halides but never really found any the right spectrum below 100watt
Why did I forget about reefbuilders : (Â they had a post about the sunpulse halides, but there isnt even a general time frame for when they will be on the market yet. I also ran across the viper 70watt hqi light, that looks as though I can raise it enough to be ok.
Re: Re: William's fluval edge conversion Those sunpulse should be out there is a store here in nlr that carries them. Raffle grabber
I've messed with and modified this tank time and time again, but I've never been happy with my simple/quick modifications so now I'm finally stepping back and doing it right. I have decided to build an 18 inch 2 bulb T5 fixture into the hood, add an overflow box hidden inside the box that originally hides the HOB Filter, using an aquatic life 30g nano skimmer, and a maxijet 600 return pump running into two exit points connected to hydor rotating water deflectors. The current usa 18 inch T5 fixture will be built into the existing fluval edge hood to try and make it look like the tank was designed that way. The sump is a simple design, having a single baffle for the sole purpose of maintaing the water level in the skimmer side. I cut the acrylic a little long and just decided to go with it and see what happens. The tank is in my bedroom so I added some silicone lines to sit the return pump on to contain the nosie a bit. I'm going to glue an overflow box I built onto the back of the tank hidden inside the old filter compartment of the tank and then cut the top back part of the tank so it will overflow into the new chamber. Looks like it will fit nicely on my old night stand that I've been using for a stand. Once the old canister I was using and the JBJ refugium light with a new bulb are removed it should start to shape up nicely.
Whitney found me a 4 bulb T5 fixture that fits what I need pretty well. Only question is will I burn out anything if I have that bulb sitting 2 inches above my tank and my tank is only 8 inches tall. I'm going to have all sps everywhere and a few lps in the sand bed in this tank.
Had a buddy with that fixture over his 10 and was growing the crap out of the purple monti he got from me. Raffle grabber
While I paint the back of the tank, and glue on the overflow box I realized just how much chemicals would be in the air, so I decided to move my live stock from the aquarium into another well.... uh.... yeah...
got the back painted it looks a lot better from the front. While cutting the overflow slots I realized how hard it is to cut long strips with a drill, but as long as its functional it doesn't matter since it won't be seen. Used silicone with a smidgen of epoxy for strength to glue on the overflow box I built.
This is a cool mod. Nice work sir! Back to the bucket thing. That is awesome. Economy nano! U should start trying to push these at the store. Lol
When I acclimate my big fish to my tank I drip them for hours, so I stick a heater and a small filter in there, so when I needed to put my coral somewhere I thought I would just swap glass tank for plastic bucket. As long as it holds water right haha
Looks like a great idea, Just a thought, I would notch a piece of plexy to fit over the glass on both sides of over flow then glue it to the over flow for extra strength as the silicone might not hold to the plexy to well. JMO. Then you could silicone a glass frame around the bottom of the over flow, I always over do stuff.
